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bespoke shoemaker
Uppers: Cut from selected skins which may be tanned
in a variety of ways to produce differing characteristics of grain, substance,
softness and durability.
Linings: These are normally selected from calf or pig
skins, which have been tanned to absorb moisture and provide insulation and
comfort.
Insole: Cut from mature shoulders which have been
tanned to maximise the qualities of flexibility, suppleness and strength. Insole shoulder has a high moisture
absorption factor - essential for your comfort during prolonged wear.
Sole: Cut from the back or "butt". The tanning process produces leather which
is tougher, denser and more rigid than shoulder, increasing resistance to wear
whilst reducing water absorption.
Stiffeners: Cut from belly, the stiffeners and toe puffs
are first soaked, allowed to mellow, then skived and beaten to consolidate the
fibres. During the lasting process, they are sandwiched between the linings and
uppers at the toe and around the heel and sides, to help the shoes retain their
shape and to provide support and protection for the feet.
Welt: Made from the best quality shoulder. The welt is the key component of the
hand-sewn shoe because it acts as the flexible interface between the supple
upper leather and the sole.
Cork: Sandwiched between insole and outer sole,
the cork provides a cushion which gradually submits to the pressure of the foot
and allows an imprint of the foot to be permanently embedded in the shoe.
Welt Thread: The welting thread is hand-twisted with raw
flax impregnated with cobblers wax (a blend of tallow, pitch and rosin).
Thickness of thread varies from 10-16 strands depending on the type of boot or
shoe. The welt stitches bond the insole, lining, stiffener, upper and welt into
a strong yet flexible unit.
Sole stitch: Waxed and twisted from 5-8 strands of flax,
the sole stitches attach the outer sole to the rest of the shoe via the
welt. Twisted onto pig's bristles, the
threads are passed through a channel cut in the mellowed sole leather, which is
later closed to hide and protect the stitches.
Hand Sewing: In both welting and sole stitching, the
stitches are made by passing the threads, from both sides of the work, through
holes made by an awl, ensuring that each stitch is cushioned by the leather
(unlike machine stitches which lock around each other at a tight radius,
leading to wear through friction - see illustration below). This hand sewing process, the hallmark of
bespoke shoes, dates from the 16th century.
machine
stitches hand
stitches
Footnote: Hand sewn shoes are not
merely a relic of the past, nor are they a luxury which only the wealthy can
afford. They remain the only practical
way of ensuring good-fitting footwear, which, if properly cared for, will prove
a sound investment for many years.